Saturday, August 11, 2012
St. Stephan's Cathedral As the Center of Vienna
Augest 7th 2012
I talked yesterday about how St. Stephan's Cathedral was built, and how the history of its construction was linked to the linage of Fredrick the Third, however I decided to give the Cathedral another look because there was so much more I wanted to understand about it. After class today, I meet up with several classmates and returned to the St. Stephan's, as there was simply much to much to explore in a single day. After our last visit with Dr. O, I wanted to climb the famous tower of St. Stephan's, but the tour of the crypt ran late, and I did not have enough time before closing, so I decided to return today, and climb the countless steps to the highest point in Vienna. I managed to make my way up the tower, (after quite a few rests) and was rewarded with a fantastic view of the beautiful city of Vienna. Not only is the tower the highest point in Vienna, but it is located in the center of town, so one couldn't possible ask for a better view of the city. However, as I contemplated the wonders of Vienna's city-scape, I began to wonder how such a fantastic view of the city was possible from a building that finished long before much of what I was gazing on had been build.
It was at that moment that I began to suspect that the view from St. Stephan's Cathedral did not happen by accident. It was quite clear that the city had been planned around the Cathedral. I already had some understanding of this from one of Dr. O's lectures, when she mentioned that a law was passed in Vienna that forbid building higher than the top of St. Stephan's tower. The law seems to suggest that the people of Vienna at some point developed a great fondness for the building, and wanted to enshrine in an honorable location our of a sense of favoritism. I recalled more statement's from Dr. O's lecture from yesterday's visit that only strengthened this observation. For example, Dr. O told us a story about how the towns people of Vienna put their own lives at risk to put out a fire in the Cathedral during world war 2. People with no fire fighting experience formed a bucket brigade at 3am in the morning to try to save the building, but sadly a great deal of damage was done to the building despite their efforts. However, would never know this from taking a look inside the building as everything has been restored as best as it could. Furthermore, it's clear from the building condition that it was preserved with great care. Dr. O pointed out that many of the original pieces of artwork were still in the Cathedral because the people of Vienna took the care to take every thing not nailed to the foundation to safe locations during bombing raids in World War 2. In addition to this, many more architectural features were added to the building since Fredrick the third's Gothic renovations, such as Baroque windows and many pieces of donated art. The Viennese simply adored this Cathedral, and appeared to being doing everything possible to honor it.
I can really only speculate to the reasons as to why this came to be, as it seemingly developed organically. There's no record of anyone decreeing that Saint Stephan's was going to be the most important building in town and that everyone in Vienna must love it. The best clues I can find to why the church might be beloved by the people of Vienna came with the crypt tour I took yesterday. The first thing I saw when entering the crypt were the fanatically decorated remains of the Bishops of St. Stephan's. Despite being long dead, the still look great, as they were buried in colored silk finery along with accompany jewelry. After seeing the next room, where urns containing the embalmed internal organs of the Hapsburg royals (excluding Fredrick the Third, who is the only royal entirely buried at St. Stephan's) were on display, I began to suspect that the popularity of the Cathedral arose out of its association with high society. So many important people are lied to rest in the St. Stephan's crypt that it almost begins to resemble who's who of Vienna's dead. The tour guide even said that they tired to move Mozart's grave to St. Stephan's, but were unable to identify his body. It appears that Fredrick the Third's successful attraction of Bishop made St. Stephan's the place to be, and everybody important wanted to receive services and be buried in the Cathedral. Dr. O even commented that even in today's time, it's an honor to be baptized at St. Stephan's, and the elite of the city strive to have Christianings there.
After reviewing my history, the best conclusion am can come to about the popularity of St. Stephan's throughout the ages is simply a matter of fashion. All the important people of Vienna, Bishops,Emperors, and heroes alike a buried at St. Stephan's, witch made in popular and stylize to be involved in the church. However, this explains the tradition of the of St. Stephan's and not the origin of its special status. I best answer I have for that is the presence of the Bishop, and the elevation of St. Stephan's from church to Cathedral. As I stare out at the city from atop the Church's tower, I find it amazing that the current cities layout could have been shaped so much from the actions of Fredrick the Third centuries ago. Had he not obtained his Bishopric, this wonderful old quarter of town might have become ugly uniform glass sky scrapers.
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